My journey from Seattle to the other side of the globe was (luckly) pretty uneventful. I did not lose my luggage and my jetlag was pretty typical. I had to fight the headache and nausea for the better part of the trip, but I was also able to get a lot of sleep (without taking any sort of medication!), watch two movies, and even make a new friend. It wasn’t until I was standing in line at Immigration that my heart really started racing because entering Thailand without a visa or a return/onward ticket is a little tricky. I guess I had already worried about it, researched visa options, and mulled over several ideas enough to earn an easy passage into the country, because I was never questioned once about it. And when I was safely through customs, I exhaled, finally realizing that I had actually done it!
Pattaya
As I mentioned, I made a friend before I even landed in Bangkok! Killing time during my layover in the Taipei airport, I met Casey. We stood to board our plane after a few hours of chatting, and found to our utter surprise, that out of the endless rows of seats on the giant plane, we were seated next to one another! By the time we finally made it to baggage claim in Bangkok, we felt like old friends. I did not really have a plan for my first weekend in Thailand, as the time that I arrived did not make it easy for me to head down to Surat Thani (where I was to join my cousin, Faren, who currently calls Surat Thani “home”) until at least the next day. So Casey (see picture below at left), intriguing me with stories of Thailand’s equivalent to Las Vegas, convinced me to join him in this other “sin city,” aka Pattaya, for at least a night or two. Needless to say, it was very nice to have a travel partner when arriving in su
ch a foreign place for the very first time, particularly since he has been visiting Thailand for years and he really took me under his wing and made sure I had a great time. I can sum up Pattaya by saying, like a stunning sunrise, the city offered a "stimulating" dawn to what has thus far proven to be an exhilarating adventure. Lonely Planet’s description offers an accurate depiction: “A throbbing monument to holiday hedonism, Pattaya whips up a seedy, summer cocktail enjoyed by more than a million visitors per year. More Costa del Bangkok than authentic Thailand, it is a garish, gaudy mix many prefer to a
void…but the city moves to the kind of unashamedly decadent rhythm some may find irresistible…Cutting a crescent around Pattaya Bay, the city’s main beach is a peninsula of basting suntanned flesh, souvenir stalls and sand castles…Pattaya is a late riser and the city really comes to life after dark, when the go go bars glow red and thunderous basslines call night owls to happy hour at a menagerie of dance clubs.”I did not take any pictures while experiencing the heady nightlife, as I was a bit too overwhelmed to remember I had a camera. But I will include a few photos of the stunning beaches and resorts. While I opted to stay in a midrange, comfortable but reasonable hotel, there were several quite luxurious places of accomodation. As white tourists, Casey and I were able to wander around any hotel without question. The guards lifted
the gates with a smile and a salute (literally) when we arrived. One afternoon, we escaped the heat and lazily lounged in a giant, open-air and air conditioned lobby of a resort. Security was actually pretty tight, guards were always present, yet we were never bothered. So if any of you decide to venture to Thailand, remember this tip! If we wanted to, we could have easily spent a day enjoying the outdoor amenities—swimming in the pools under stone waterfalls and lingering next to the man-made lily ponds and palm tree gardens.Surat Thani
After two days in Pattaya, on Sunday afternoon, I departed for Surat Thani. The journey took about 16 hours an
d consisted of a sawngthaew – bus – taxi – bus – minivan. A sawnthaew is a small pick-up truck with two rows of bench seats down both sides of the truck bed. I feel like every other car is a sawngthaew, making for cheap and easy transportation widely used by both Thais and “farrang.” (Farrang is a commonly used Thai term for foreigners.) Throughout the trip to Surat Thani, I had to be alert and on my toes at all times. The first leg was Pattaya to Bangkok. I suppose the Pattaya bus station is not frequented by farrang, because everything was in Thai! Most tourists will take a taxi or a shared car/minivan up to Bangkok, but I had gone that route on my way down, and more importantly, I am quite interested in going beyond tourism and experiencing what the Thai people actually do. Not to mention that a bus ticket was about 1/10 of what I would pay to take a taxi by myself! So, like a tried and true backpacker, I went the cheapest possible route. I narrowly boarded the right bus in the nick of time. The last thing I wanted to do was get on the wrong bus and end up 3 hours in the WRONG direction of Thailand. So, after a bit of investigation, I was settled and on my way to the Bangkok Eastern Bus Station. The taxi I took from the bus to the train station in Bangkok deposited me right in front a travel agency. An agent lured me inside by grabbing my bag from the taxi before I had a second to figure out what was going on, so that I had to follow him. I could definitel
y tell that the taxi driver and the agency had some deal going on (i.e. drop off farrang passengers at their doorstep), but I was not about to bite the bait! I read somewhere to avoid these tourist traps and buy your tickets inside the train station, so as politely as I could, I got out of there as fast as I could, subsequently realizing that I had no idea where the train station was. I happened to walk in the right direction and stumbled upon the train station almost immediately. All night trains were full, which was a bummer because I was hoping to get a sleeper berth and sleep through the 12 hour train ride. But at that point, I was just extremely grateful that I was able to get on the last bus down to Surat Thani.
After several hours in the train station, afraid to eat any of the vendor food for fear of the effects that it would have on my digestive system and wanting to avoid spending more time than absolutely necessary in the dirty bus toilets, I decided to subsist for the rest of the day and night on some “safe” looking crackers. I killed time on a computer in an internet café, writing in my journal, and people watching. I have found that I can never get enough of the people-watching in Thailand. So the bus ride was kind of a pain. It was looooong and really uncomfortable (I couldn’t help but wish I had splurged and taken a flight), and whenever the bus stopped I had no idea if I was supposed to get off. Again, the last thing I wanted was to get LOST in the middle of nowhere in Thailand. But, all turned out well, and I arrived in Surat Thani early in the morning. Of course I had no idea where the heck I was and I could see no form of taxi’s, tuk-tuks, or sawngthaews in sight. We had been dropped at something that resembled a tourist office, so I found an elderly employee to help me, and he actually agreed to drive me himself for a good price. Despite being a seemingly lost farrang, he didn’t overcharge me by too much. By this time, Faren had already called me three times, anxiously waiting my arrival on her front step. Faren had supplied me with several pictures to show to a taxi driver, including the address and cross street written out in Thai, a picture of the school, and a map, among other things. Armed with all of this information, the only hint that worked for this man was something kind of funny, and it was exactly as Faren had said. For some reason, the Thai people in Surat Thani do not seem to be familiar with addresses or maps. Luckily, there is a doctor right next door to the school, and if you can say his name (“Mo-Ma-Nid”) with a somewhat correct pronunciation and tones, they understand where you want to go. I had to use this trick again a few days later, and sure enough, it was the only hint that the Sawngthaew drivers seem to know!
All this detail is wearing me out, so don’t expect it for future blog entries =) Of course, I realize that not everyone likes so much detail, but remember that this blog is as much a travel journal for me as a means to keep my family and friends updated. In fact, I cannot possibly find enough time to write down everything that I want to share and remember. There are so many funny, crazy things that happen to Faren and I everyday, and we always talk about how we need to remember to include it in our blogs. But this is easier said than done.
After two days in Pattaya, on Sunday afternoon, I departed for Surat Thani. The journey took about 16 hours an
d consisted of a sawngthaew – bus – taxi – bus – minivan. A sawnthaew is a small pick-up truck with two rows of bench seats down both sides of the truck bed. I feel like every other car is a sawngthaew, making for cheap and easy transportation widely used by both Thais and “farrang.” (Farrang is a commonly used Thai term for foreigners.) Throughout the trip to Surat Thani, I had to be alert and on my toes at all times. The first leg was Pattaya to Bangkok. I suppose the Pattaya bus station is not frequented by farrang, because everything was in Thai! Most tourists will take a taxi or a shared car/minivan up to Bangkok, but I had gone that route on my way down, and more importantly, I am quite interested in going beyond tourism and experiencing what the Thai people actually do. Not to mention that a bus ticket was about 1/10 of what I would pay to take a taxi by myself! So, like a tried and true backpacker, I went the cheapest possible route. I narrowly boarded the right bus in the nick of time. The last thing I wanted to do was get on the wrong bus and end up 3 hours in the WRONG direction of Thailand. So, after a bit of investigation, I was settled and on my way to the Bangkok Eastern Bus Station. The taxi I took from the bus to the train station in Bangkok deposited me right in front a travel agency. An agent lured me inside by grabbing my bag from the taxi before I had a second to figure out what was going on, so that I had to follow him. I could definitel
y tell that the taxi driver and the agency had some deal going on (i.e. drop off farrang passengers at their doorstep), but I was not about to bite the bait! I read somewhere to avoid these tourist traps and buy your tickets inside the train station, so as politely as I could, I got out of there as fast as I could, subsequently realizing that I had no idea where the train station was. I happened to walk in the right direction and stumbled upon the train station almost immediately. All night trains were full, which was a bummer because I was hoping to get a sleeper berth and sleep through the 12 hour train ride. But at that point, I was just extremely grateful that I was able to get on the last bus down to Surat Thani.After several hours in the train station, afraid to eat any of the vendor food for fear of the effects that it would have on my digestive system and wanting to avoid spending more time than absolutely necessary in the dirty bus toilets, I decided to subsist for the rest of the day and night on some “safe” looking crackers. I killed time on a computer in an internet café, writing in my journal, and people watching. I have found that I can never get enough of the people-watching in Thailand. So the bus ride was kind of a pain. It was looooong and really uncomfortable (I couldn’t help but wish I had splurged and taken a flight), and whenever the bus stopped I had no idea if I was supposed to get off. Again, the last thing I wanted was to get LOST in the middle of nowhere in Thailand. But, all turned out well, and I arrived in Surat Thani early in the morning. Of course I had no idea where the heck I was and I could see no form of taxi’s, tuk-tuks, or sawngthaews in sight. We had been dropped at something that resembled a tourist office, so I found an elderly employee to help me, and he actually agreed to drive me himself for a good price. Despite being a seemingly lost farrang, he didn’t overcharge me by too much. By this time, Faren had already called me three times, anxiously waiting my arrival on her front step. Faren had supplied me with several pictures to show to a taxi driver, including the address and cross street written out in Thai, a picture of the school, and a map, among other things. Armed with all of this information, the only hint that worked for this man was something kind of funny, and it was exactly as Faren had said. For some reason, the Thai people in Surat Thani do not seem to be familiar with addresses or maps. Luckily, there is a doctor right next door to the school, and if you can say his name (“Mo-Ma-Nid”) with a somewhat correct pronunciation and tones, they understand where you want to go. I had to use this trick again a few days later, and sure enough, it was the only hint that the Sawngthaew drivers seem to know!
All this detail is wearing me out, so don’t expect it for future blog entries =) Of course, I realize that not everyone likes so much detail, but remember that this blog is as much a travel journal for me as a means to keep my family and friends updated. In fact, I cannot possibly find enough time to write down everything that I want to share and remember. There are so many funny, crazy things that happen to Faren and I everyday, and we always talk about how we need to remember to include it in our blogs. But this is easier said than done.
The first week in Surat Thani was spent getting to know the city and acclimating to the extremely HOT temperatures. Now, I know how to cross the street (which was very scary and slightly intimidating at first), avoid the growling stray dogs (also scary and intimidating), and order dinner at the night market. I even know where the cool night spots are, the best place to buy real iced espresso, and where to do laundry. Of course, these things would have taken a lot longer without Faren to show me the ropes. I’ve 
basically moved in to her little “apartment” at the school, which is actually an unused classroom on the very top floor of the school where she works. It is bright and airy, and although we do not have air conditioning, we have our own bathroom. After a few years of sharing tiny rooms in the sorority, this living situation does not phase me at all. I am really growing to love our little classroom!
basically moved in to her little “apartment” at the school, which is actually an unused classroom on the very top floor of the school where she works. It is bright and airy, and although we do not have air conditioning, we have our own bathroom. After a few years of sharing tiny rooms in the sorority, this living situation does not phase me at all. I am really growing to love our little classroom!(Photo shows night market in Surat Thani where Faren and I dine almost every evening)
Ko Pha-ngan
Faren and I spent this past weekend (April 6-8) on beautiful Ko Phangan. It was SO incredibly stunning. I am still on a high from the past few days. We spent Friday night in a little bungalow on a beach that could only be reached by boat (a CRAZY boat ride, better than any roller coaster) and after hiking across a rocky seashore and over a rickety wooden bridge. It was very special and tucked away, I felt like we were discovering some secret location, like in the movie, “The Beach.” And I swear that the other tourists on that beach looked just like the people who resided in the secluded island community in the movie. Very cool. But since we were so isolated, we had to share our living space with other creatures. Our frog neighbors were louder than I ever knew a reptile could be, which was pretty entertaining. The first bungalow that we were given was infested with GIANT spiders, so we promptly re
turned the key and got our money back. We ended up sharing a bungalow with Faren’s friend, Kristen, and her boyfriend Matt, with whom we had met up. There was only one giant spider (that we saw) in their bungalow, plus a cat that seemed to live on our front porch, and would sneak in if we left the doors open. During the night at our secluded beach, Faren, Kristen, Matt and I went to a "jungle party," aptly named by Kristen as it really was an open-air club in the jungle. But this did not mean there was any lack of a dance floor, DJ, huge speakers, black lights, and plenty of alcohol.
On Saturday night we stayed in Hat Rin (not so secluded, but known for its wild nightlife and famous Full-Moon Parties) and partied on the beach. We had less creature-roommates in this hotel. However, we did hear a loud frog noise sounding suspiciously like it was coming from the corner of our room, and in the corner there was a large wardrobe that would make for a great hiding spot. By this time, we were so toughened by the spiders, that instead of freaking out, we were very amused and had a good laugh about it. Somehow, like
the bungalow, this room also came with a stray cat sleeping right outside of our door. But this one didn’t try to enter, so it didn’t bother us. I do love cats, but I am very weary of the diseases I am sure many of the stray cats carry. Speaking of stray animals, we had a run-in on Saturday night with a pack of dogs. Faren and I were walking around Hat Rin with our new British friend, Owen, looking for a Reggae bar with a larger than life-size statue of Bob Marley in front (sounds cool, huh? see picture at right). On a quiet street we were accosted by a pack of very scary, growling dogs. The last thing you are supposed to do is RUN, although that is the only thing you want to do. So Faren and I, scared out of our wits, walked as fast as we could without running. Meanwhile, Owen stood up for us and fought off the dogs. He did get bitten, but the dog did not break his skin. Needless to say, we were very thankful. But the experience left me that much more scared of stray dogs. Faren has already been bitten and subsequently gotten a rabies shot, so this is something that I am desperately avoiding.
During the days on Ko Phangan we hiked, explored the towns, slept, and played in the ocean. The waves were huge and SO MUCH FUN. We took some fun pictures/videos of us being slammed by giant waves. Spending so much time on the beach under the strong Southeast Asia sun means that I've had to be really careful to apply and reapply a lot of sunscreen since my skin has not seen UV rays since last August. I am looking forward to becoming browner not only for aesthetic purposes, but also because it is really very high maintenance to not burn when my skin is so fair.
So the weekend was great. I even loved the ferry rides. Faren and I rock out to our iPods, sing, dance, drink beer, and make friends with the Thai people (see picture below). Yesterday we actually had several of them taking pictures with us, like we were some kind of celebrities! We were pretty entertained, and they seemed to be very entertained by us, so it worked out perfectly :) We are heading back over to Ko Phangan on Friday for Songkran, which is the hugely celebrated Thai New Year. I am quite lucky that I happened to be in Thailand for this holiday. There are countless festivals, fairs, and parades this week to celebrate the New Year, and in fact, Faren and I are meeting up with another teacher and his friend tonight at the fair in Surat Thani! I hear there are even bumper cars….
Faren and I spent this past weekend (April 6-8) on beautiful Ko Phangan. It was SO incredibly stunning. I am still on a high from the past few days. We spent Friday night in a little bungalow on a beach that could only be reached by boat (a CRAZY boat ride, better than any roller coaster) and after hiking across a rocky seashore and over a rickety wooden bridge. It was very special and tucked away, I felt like we were discovering some secret location, like in the movie, “The Beach.” And I swear that the other tourists on that beach looked just like the people who resided in the secluded island community in the movie. Very cool. But since we were so isolated, we had to share our living space with other creatures. Our frog neighbors were louder than I ever knew a reptile could be, which was pretty entertaining. The first bungalow that we were given was infested with GIANT spiders, so we promptly re
turned the key and got our money back. We ended up sharing a bungalow with Faren’s friend, Kristen, and her boyfriend Matt, with whom we had met up. There was only one giant spider (that we saw) in their bungalow, plus a cat that seemed to live on our front porch, and would sneak in if we left the doors open. During the night at our secluded beach, Faren, Kristen, Matt and I went to a "jungle party," aptly named by Kristen as it really was an open-air club in the jungle. But this did not mean there was any lack of a dance floor, DJ, huge speakers, black lights, and plenty of alcohol.On Saturday night we stayed in Hat Rin (not so secluded, but known for its wild nightlife and famous Full-Moon Parties) and partied on the beach. We had less creature-roommates in this hotel. However, we did hear a loud frog noise sounding suspiciously like it was coming from the corner of our room, and in the corner there was a large wardrobe that would make for a great hiding spot. By this time, we were so toughened by the spiders, that instead of freaking out, we were very amused and had a good laugh about it. Somehow, like
the bungalow, this room also came with a stray cat sleeping right outside of our door. But this one didn’t try to enter, so it didn’t bother us. I do love cats, but I am very weary of the diseases I am sure many of the stray cats carry. Speaking of stray animals, we had a run-in on Saturday night with a pack of dogs. Faren and I were walking around Hat Rin with our new British friend, Owen, looking for a Reggae bar with a larger than life-size statue of Bob Marley in front (sounds cool, huh? see picture at right). On a quiet street we were accosted by a pack of very scary, growling dogs. The last thing you are supposed to do is RUN, although that is the only thing you want to do. So Faren and I, scared out of our wits, walked as fast as we could without running. Meanwhile, Owen stood up for us and fought off the dogs. He did get bitten, but the dog did not break his skin. Needless to say, we were very thankful. But the experience left me that much more scared of stray dogs. Faren has already been bitten and subsequently gotten a rabies shot, so this is something that I am desperately avoiding.During the days on Ko Phangan we hiked, explored the towns, slept, and played in the ocean. The waves were huge and SO MUCH FUN. We took some fun pictures/videos of us being slammed by giant waves. Spending so much time on the beach under the strong Southeast Asia sun means that I've had to be really careful to apply and reapply a lot of sunscreen since my skin has not seen UV rays since last August. I am looking forward to becoming browner not only for aesthetic purposes, but also because it is really very high maintenance to not burn when my skin is so fair.
So the weekend was great. I even loved the ferry rides. Faren and I rock out to our iPods, sing, dance, drink beer, and make friends with the Thai people (see picture below). Yesterday we actually had several of them taking pictures with us, like we were some kind of celebrities! We were pretty entertained, and they seemed to be very entertained by us, so it worked out perfectly :) We are heading back over to Ko Phangan on Friday for Songkran, which is the hugely celebrated Thai New Year. I am quite lucky that I happened to be in Thailand for this holiday. There are countless festivals, fairs, and parades this week to celebrate the New Year, and in fact, Faren and I are meeting up with another teacher and his friend tonight at the fair in Surat Thani! I hear there are even bumper cars….
Currently, Faren and I are actively working on plotting our next move. We are staying in Surat Thani while we figure it out, since Faren is already set up with a teaching job and we have this free place to stay. Luckily, she never signed a contract so we are not tied down. The delay is not that we can not both find a job teaching English in the same city—teachers are needed everywhere—the problem is that we are determined to find jobs at a place where we really want to be. Ideally, we would be living on the island of Ko Phangan, but obviously we are not alone in wanting to teach there, so jobs are in higher demand than teachers. Other possibilities include Ko Samui, Krabi, or Phuket. I am looking into getting a temporary teaching position in Surat Thani until we move on, but very short-term work can be hard to find. So, in short, the search for what is next is still in full swing and very inconclusive!
4 comments:
Lucy it sounds like you're having the most AMAZING time! Good luck with everything over in Thailand. I'll be in India this July, so if you feel like checking out MY motherland, feel free to stop by! It'd be great to see you!
Oh Lucy I am so glad that you posted on your blog so that I know you are safe and having an amazing time! I can't even tell you how much I miss you and how proud of you I am. I'm glad you are enjoying yourself, you deserve it. Always know that you are in my thoughts and prayers. I love you! xoxo, Alycat
Hi Sitter!!!!!!
It sounds like you are having a blast. Please tell me you will still be there in september so i can meet up with you. Its less than 5 months away. You WILL be there. I am so glad you guys are having such an awesome time. Maybe even can come too. I was partying at a crazy full moon party too! Were you at one as well? Different sides of the world, both doing the same thing on a crazy beach somewhere. Miss you sis, be safe.
XX
Julia
hi lucy lu!!! i'm so happy i discovered your blog deal! it sounds absolutely amazing there. You deserve it so much and i'm just so happy for you :) i can't wait to hear updates, so keep them coming! miss you so much--Beandog
Post a Comment